The Ottawa First-Time Buyer's Guide

Start here.

Everything between deciding to buy and getting the keys, in the order it happens. Read the part you need and close the tab.

What you need saved

Two numbers matter before anything else: the down payment, and the roughly two percent on top that nobody mentions.

The down payment

Five percent on the first $500,000, ten percent on anything above that, up to $1,499,999. At $1.5 million and over it's twenty percent, because mortgage insurance isn't available that high.

Most people multiply the whole price by five and budget $32,500 for a $650,000 house. The real minimum there is $40,000.

Mortgage insurance

With less than twenty percent down, this is required. The thing almost everyone gets wrong: it protects the lender if you stop paying, and it does nothing for you. What it buys you is permission to borrow with a smaller down payment.

The premium gets added onto your mortgage rather than paid up front, so it doesn't change what you need saved. It does raise the monthly payment.

Closing costs, roughly 2% more

Closing is the day the house legally becomes yours and the money moves. The bills that land that day come to about two percent of the price: land transfer tax, legal fees, title insurance, the inspection, and adjustments.

Ottawa has no municipal land transfer tax, so you pay the provincial one only, and as a first-time buyer you get up to $4,000 of it back.

Where the money can come from

An FHSA lets you put away $8,000 a year up to a lifetime $40,000, deductible going in and tax-free coming out. The Home Buyers' Plan lets you pull $60,000 out of an RRSP, or $120,000 for a couple, repaid over fifteen years starting the second year after you take it.

The two can be used together on the same purchase. A gift from family works as well, and your lender will want a letter confirming it isn't a loan.

Start with the monthly number

Most people do this backwards. They ask a lender what they can borrow, take the number, and start shopping at the top of it. Then they find out what the top of it feels like on a Tuesday in February.

Go the other way

Decide what you're comfortable paying every month, then work back to the price that produces it.

Start with what you pay now

Add your rent and your utilities together. That's a number you already know you can live with, because you're living with it. The real question is how much more than that you're willing to hand over every month, and what you'd give up to do it.

Be honest about what it displaces

A payment that works on a spreadsheet can still mean no vacation, nothing going into savings, and a car you can't afford to replace when it dies. Write down what you put away each month right now, then decide how much of that you're prepared to stop putting away.

Work out your price

Put in the monthly number you landed on. This works backwards to the purchase price that produces it, and shows you where the money goes.

Adjust the estimates
Shop at around $0

Estimates, not a pre-approval. Property tax and heating vary by house, so adjust them above once you know the actual place. Your lender does the binding version of this math.

What the lender will say

They'll approve you for more. Their limits are 39% of your gross income on housing, and 44% once every other debt payment is counted in. Those are ceilings on a bank's risk. They were never meant as advice about your life, and the gap between their number and yours is the reason to do this part first.

Pre-approval, then looking

Two words that sound alike and aren't

Pre-qualification is a rough number a lender gives you after a few questions, and it's worth about what it costs. Pre-approval means someone read your actual documents and held a rate for you. Sellers can tell the difference immediately.

What a rate hold is, and why the number looks bad

When a lender pre-approves you they lock in a rate, usually for 90 to 120 days. That rate is a ceiling rather than a quote. Lenders hold roughly a point above the best rate on offer that day, so the figure in your letter is deliberately pessimistic.

If rates hold steady or fall, you close at something better. If they climb, you're covered.

Get it before the first showing

Then set your own ceiling underneath the one you were approved for.

A lender's number describes what you can carry on paper. It knows nothing about what the rest of your life costs.

Karim Ali · Ottawa Realtor®

What kind of home

In Ottawa this is mostly a budget decision, and the words on the listing don't always mean what you'd assume.

Freehold

You own the house and the land under it. Nothing monthly beyond property taxes and utilities.

Condo

You own your unit. A monthly fee covers the building, the shared spaces, and the reserve fund, which is the corporation's savings account for big repairs like a roof or an elevator.

Freehold POTL

Parcel of Tied Land. You own the house and the land the way a freehold owner does, and you still pay a monthly fee toward shared roads, visitor parking or snow clearing. This is the one that surprises people, because the listing says freehold and a fee turns up anyway.

New build

A builder's agreement is nothing like a resale one. Deposits, closing adjustments, HST and the Tarion warranty all work differently, and most builders require your agent to register you on the first visit.

Where in Ottawa

The part you can't research your way out of

Commute, schools, groceries, and what the street sounds like on a Tuesday night. Listings and maps will only take you so far, so go stand on the street at the hour you'd be there.

Making the offer

An offer is the price plus everything else, and the everything else is often what wins it.

Conditions

A condition is something that has to be satisfied before the deal becomes binding. Financing, inspection, and for a condo the status certificate. Each one is a door you can still walk out of if what you find isn't what you expected.

Once the conditions are met and removed, the deal is firm, which means neither side can back out without serious consequences.

The deposit

Money you hand over within a day or two of an accepted offer. It shows the seller you're serious, it's held in trust, and it forms part of your down payment rather than being an extra cost.

The irrevocable

Your deadline for the seller to answer. Until it expires your offer stands and you can't take it back. After it expires, the offer is dead.

Price is only one lever

Closing date, deposit size, and which conditions you carry all move an offer. On a house with several offers, the highest number doesn't automatically win.

Due diligence

The window between an accepted offer and a firm deal, where you find out what you bought.

The inspection

A few hundred dollars against a purchase in the hundreds of thousands. An inspector won't open walls, and won't tell you whether to buy. They tell you the condition of what they can see, and what it's likely to cost you.

The status certificate

Condos only. A package from the condo corporation showing its finances, its rules, the health of the reserve fund, and any lawsuit or special assessment on the horizon. A special assessment is a one-time bill sent to every owner when the reserve fund can't cover a repair, and it can run into thousands.

Your lawyer reads this line by line, and that is what they are for. Read it yourself too. It is your money and your house, and you should know what you are signing.

Closing

The day it becomes yours. Mostly your lawyer's day rather than yours.

Your lawyer

They search the title to confirm the seller is entitled to sell it, register the transfer, and move the money between the lender, the seller and you.

Land transfer tax and adjustments

The provincial tax is due here, less your first-time buyer rebate of up to $4,000. Adjustments settle anything the seller prepaid past the closing date, usually property taxes and sometimes utilities, so you reimburse them for the part of the year you'll own it.

Leave your credit alone

Between the accepted offer and closing day, don't buy a car, open a card, or change jobs. Lenders re-check before they release the money, and deals have collapsed at this stage over exactly that.

Mistakes worth avoiding

Skipping the inspection to look competitive

Sometimes it's the right call. It's never a call worth making without understanding exactly what you're giving up on that specific house.

Buying at the top of your approval

The number a lender approves has nothing to do with what your life costs. This is the whole reason to work out your own monthly number first.

Falling for the finishes

Paint, counters and light fixtures are cheap to change. Location, layout and how much light the place gets are not.

Confusing pre-qualification with pre-approval

Covered further up, and still the most common one on this list.

Questions people ask

Twenty-six of them answered in full, including the ones people feel silly asking. Ask them anyway. Four times if you need to.

Print the checklists

Five of them, one for each stage. Before you start looking, making an offer, closing week, buying a new build, and one for selling if you're doing both at once.

When You're Ready

This page asked nothing of you

When you want someone in your corner for the actual thing, that's a different conversation, and it starts with half an hour on the phone.